Took a look at the following Wagner Family wines yesterday: 2007 Silver Chardonnay, 2007 Mer Soleil, 2007 Conundrum, and 2007 Caymus Napa Cab. None of these wines impressed me, but perhaps they do have a “Sense of Place?” Perhaps this is what folks want out of California. Modern styled wines that push the envelope on ripeness and intensity. If you tasted these wines blind would you NOT guess that they were Californian? There in we have a debate. Should we talk about them as wines that simply “are not my style?” Or as wines that are the “current sense of place?” And, actually correct? I never want to slam any wine- (it is a drink that goes back through the ages-it is to be respected.) But, I do feel that California-on the whole, is now putting themselves into the category of “wines that taste like “everything” instead of “something.” Though these wines are sure to impress-they are “Simply not my style.” And that will be a new category in my wine tasting’s. Here are my comments:
-2007 Wagner “Silver” Chardonnay
Fairly light in color-pale straw. Milky/creamy aromatics. Some buttered corn followed by hints of tropical fruits (very subtle.) Why should a Chardonnay labeled un-oaked receive full malolactic-at least this is what I taste? I’d like to see some more brightness vs the muted milky, buttery, corn flavors that I taste up-front. Un-interseting for the style. But, for those wanting the ever asked for “buttery Chardonnay” this might be just the thing.
2007 Mer Soleil Chardonnay
Deeper straw in color than the Silver with more intense tropical fruit aromas. Some toasted nuttiness on the palate as well as pronounced alcohol. The wine is full, lush and slightly oily. Weighty, though with a decent acid balance. This wine offers a big mouth full of pear and tropical fruit-as well as a rather long honeyed finish, but it is somewhat hot (14.5 alc) Not as oaky as remembered-not my style.
2007 Conundrum
Redolent of stone fruits. Peach and apricot-quite viscous and lingering-bordering sweet. Faint bitter finish-like sucking on an apricot pit. The folks love it. Not my style.
2007 Caymus Napa Cabernet
Laughed after I read Wine Speculator had given it 92 points! Screw points. Most who tasted it shared my thoughts:
Overly ripe-is this the current “California Sense of Place?” Is this the revealed terroir? Bloody and sweet. In texture and mouth-feel-somewhat flabby, over assertive and lacking in elegance-volatile acidity. But….would I enjoy it tasted blind with a rib-eye from Morton’s? Perhaps I would? Food changes all. Though still “not my style.”
