Guidobono Barbera D’Alba 2008

Barbera purple in color with lighter purple, almost garnet borders. It is a bit  deeper in color than expected for the varietal, especially at this price point-around 10-12 dollars.  The aromatics scream extraction. This is quite grapey, though an underlying acidity does provide some lift, and  allows some expression of the terroir.   I find the aromatics to be friendly and inviting, though I am missing the rusticity that I crave in this varietal, and this region.  It is somewhat one dimensional and is clearly a wine made for the international palate.  One aimed at the “new world” wine lover.  It fits the bill of say a Parker 90 point Garnacha from Spain. Still, the fresh acidity does pull it back to Italy, and this subtle  verve allows the wine  to retain some character, and sense of place-though minute in proportion.  On the palate the wine fills the mouth with dense, extracted, concentrated, almost chalky deep purple  fruits.  The alcohol is high-14%! Not what one would equate with a 10 dollar Barbera D’ Alba. How about a 10 dollar Zinfandel?  The fruit here is more than ample, and while the acidity is in balance I would enjoy this wine more on its own than with food.  Had it tonight with a home made pizza topped with  oven dried tomatoes, pesto, veggies and 4 cheeses.  It failed to provide the zip and lightness  needed to complement the dish.  But, when I stepped back after dinner and had it with out food it perked up and took center stage. This is  ten dollar Barbera D’Alba trying to be overly  serious and in doing so I feel it betrays its humble origins to some degree.  Guidobono is  sure to be a crowd pleaser, and more than likely a Parker fave, but to those seeking out the style the locals in this region are drinking, this will miss the mark.  All hail hedonism! But I’ll continue to seek a more classic style.  The wine is worth its modest price, and I’ll leave it at that.

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