Recently I was privileged to participate in a short presentation on Greek wines at our shop via Christopher Badini and Athenee Importers & Distributors, LTD. Check out the link here, as a world of learning awaits! I am always on the look for those things that express a “sense of place,” pertaining to food, wine and beer. I want to taste, as one of my favorite importers has said so eloquently, that which tastes like “something,” and not like “everything.” I found a “taste” of Greece here, and I’d love to share that place in this writing.
Certainly, the sense of place bell rang out loudest for me in this short presentation, when the discussion turned to the Greek Isles, in particular the isles of Cephalonia (West/Central in the Ionian Sea) and Santorini (South/East in the Aegean Sea.) I’ll keep it short, as nothing can suck the life out of learning as can droning. Especially droning about facts in which the average wine lover could really care less. I only want to share the place, the stuff that makes the place special, and provide perhaps a very small serving of erudition. Let’s talk a bit about the two Isles, (Cephalonia and Santorini.) and, look at a white wine (white grapes are the predominant grapes in Greece) from each Island that “Captures the Appellation.”
Is there a sense of place pertaining to wine, and these Isles? You Betcha. In fact, one need only to ruminate a bit over the soil composition on these Isles, and the soil composition dominant in mainland Greece. The mainland soil speaks for the most part of clay, while the soil on the Isles screams with a sirens wail of volcanic ash, chalk, and sandstone. Vines struggle for nutrients through these soils, and as a result the wines can take on the very characteristics of the soils themselves. (This is why Chardonnay from for instance, Chablis, goes so well with oysters. Take a look at the composition of soil in Chablis and you will discover that the damn soil is loaded with fossilized shells! In fact, I have eaten oysters in the vineyards of Chablis, and have been informed to throw them right back to the earth from which they came-ashes to ashes.) But, enough droning. Still, the sense of place here deepens with a quick check of the weather. It is hot here! Harvests are early. We’re talking early August! It is so intense here that the average wine snob might suggest that quality wine cannot be made in this locale. However, the Greeks have discovered the secret. And, that is they have learned to grow grape varieties that can deal with local conditions…indigenous grapes! This a very important piece of wine info to place into your mind. Sure, modern varietals have been introduced throughout Greece, but to taste the true place one must turn to the indigenous varietals. When these indigenous varietals are bottled at 100% the wine is said to have “Captured the Appellation.” I love this phrase. Here are two beautiful examples of white wines from Cepalonia and Santorini composed of 100% indigenous grapes that most certainly capture the appellation, and take the taster to the place:
Gentilini Robola 2007 From the appellation Cephalonia, this wine utilizes 100% Robola, (no relation to the northern Italian varietal Ribolla Gialla, but if ya want to learn….) an indigenous Greek varietal from this island. This bottling is farmed organically, and hand harvested. The wine displays abundant citrus, melon, and orange blossom. The beauty here is in the underlying cut of the terroir, that sense of place. The nicely fragrant fruit is garnished with a blessed level of acidity, or “crispness” if you are one of those wine drinkers who can’t handle the sheer beauty of “acid” in your wine. (You really need to get over this by the way, as “acid” can be lovely!) A stoney minerality carries through on the finish. One can taste the earth in this bottling-really! This wine begs for grilled Octopus. And, I can tell you from experience that the Greeks know how to grill Octopus! Around 20 bucks
GAI’A Winery Thalassitis 2008 From the appellation Santorini, this wine is produced from 100% Assyrtiko and this wine is said to capture the true essence of a white wine from Santorini. An interesting factoid about Santorini as told to me by Christopher from Athenee Importers is that on this island things are very hard to grow due to the intense nature of the clime. Because of this vines suffer. The results are, tomatoes for instance, that are very small….but, potently flavorful. This is interesting, as it is a well known fact that grape vines that “suffer” to obtain their nutrients can often yield the most majestic of fruit. Any way, this very intensity shows up immediately in this bottling. The aromas are powerful, drawing one in with deep lemon-lime. A pronounced richness appears on the palate. There is also a bit of salinity, and minerality, followed by pronounced brightness. I loved the direct correlation between the intense clime and the rather assertive nature of the juice in my glass. I certainly enjoyed my mini trip to Santorini! This wine is really delicious, and would pair with anything from the sea. I’m thinking of taking a bottle up to Maine while Lobster is still on sale for 3.99/lb. Around 25 bucks
Thank you for your time, and for allowing us both to further our learning in a world of, food, wine, and beer that will never stop feeding the most very hungry! Go get some Greek wine!
