Who is not looking for absurdly undervalued wines? I know I am. An extreme hotbed of value in today’s wine market lies in the Loire Valley (France.) Let’s focus today on red wines. Loire reds are trending. They represent extreme value for the modest prices they command. And, wine buyers across this country are buying in, increasing facings, and pushing with passion the many gems to be found here. Consider these remarks extracted from “The World Atlas of Wine” (6th edition.) Cabernet Franc, the principle red varietal here ” makes vigorous wine with raspberry fruitiness and the rasping savour of a freshly sharpened pencil.” In reference to the major red wine growing region within the Loire Valley (Chinon) another quote from the same book fascinates. “A hundred years ago Chinon’s wine was rated the equal of Margaux. In charm, if not in force and structure, it can come surprisingly close today and production is expanding accordingly.” The “charm” factor is what is drawing current wine buyers to the region. Customers are responding. They are frequenting these reds, appreciating the value, and demanding more. And, we have given them more.
Just North of Chinon lies the appellation Bourgueil. Here, one can get a taste of the regions best, and at the same time pay one of the the regions least! Damien Lorieux’s 07 Borgueil “Tuffeaux” 07 offers all the raspberry fruitiness and “rasping savour” mentioned above. It proffers a touch of mineral in the way of wet stones, as well as some earthy, bright red beet, common to the area. The wine is all about freshness, silky softness, and high toned raspberry fruit accompanied by nearly non-existing silky tannins. A perfect partner to grilled sausages, hanger steak with a side of frites, or simple picnic fare. When I last visited the Beaujolais region of France, I was served the same kind of soft, silky, high toned Gamay based wines with locally made sausages grilled on a fire over smoldering grape vines, and the simple pairing was more than memorable. Tonight, I re-visited the pairing, instead via the Loire. Grilled veal sausage on a simple baguette with a beer based grain mustard, and a bottle of Borgueil. The result? An absurdly undervalued food and wine pairing that took me to the place. At around 13 bucks a bottle, you’ll be more than impressed. Search out this one. It has decent distribution here in Boston via a distributor who knows how to find some great stuff (Vineyard Road.) See if it is available in your neck of the woods. If not, find your favorite wine guy/girl, and have them suggest something redolent.
This one paired well with Old Crow Medicine Show’s “Old Virginia Creeper.” Don’t forget the grilled sausages-and plenty of mustard. Earthy, fresh, elegant and undervalued.
